A panel upgrade replaces the box of breakers that feeds every circuit in your home. Sometimes that is all you need. Other times the whole service (meter, main breaker and the wires from the utility) needs to grow too. Here is how to tell the difference, what the work involves in California, and what it typically costs.
What are the signs you need a new electrical panel?
- It is a known problem brand. Federal Pacific Stab-Lok, Zinsco (including GTE Sylvania-Zinsco) and some Challenger panels have long problem histories. See Federal Pacific, Zinsco and other problem panels.
- Heat, smell or sound. A warm panel cover, a burning smell, buzzing or crackling, or scorch marks are warning signs. Stop and call an electrician; if you see smoke or sparks, call 911.
- Rust, water or damage. Corrosion inside or on an outdoor panel, or water stains above it.
- Out of space. No open breaker spaces for a new circuit, or many "tandem" and double-tapped breakers.
- You are adding big loads. An EV charger, heat pump, induction range, hot tub or solar can push an older 100-amp panel past what it can carry.
- Fuses. A fuse box still works, but it limits what you can add, and some insurers ask about it. See Should I replace my fuse box?.
- An inspector, insurer or buyer's home inspector flagged it.
Panel swap vs service upgrade vs subpanel: what is the difference?
Main panel replacement (same size, same spot). The panel is replaced with a new one, usually a 200-amp main-breaker panel, in the same location, and your circuits are moved over. The meter and the utility wires stay as they are. This fixes an unsafe, damaged or full panel, but it does not add capacity if your service is still 100 amps.
Service upgrade. The service is the equipment that brings power in: the utility's wires, the meter socket, the main breaker and the grounding. A service upgrade (for example 100 amps to 200 amps) replaces that equipment, often with a combined meter-main, so the home can carry more load. Your utility has to be involved, because they disconnect and reconnect the power and may need to approve the new equipment.
Subpanel. A smaller panel fed from the main panel, used to add breaker spaces near a garage, shop or addition. A subpanel adds spaces, not capacity: it still shares what the main service can supply. Read When does a subpanel make sense?.
What does the work involve?
- Load check and plan. The electrician looks at your existing loads and plans (EV, heat pump, solar) to pick the right size. For bigger additions a load calculation is the right tool; our rough panel check is a starting point, not a substitute.
- Permit. Panel replacements and service upgrades need an electrical permit from your city or county.
- Utility coordination. For a service upgrade, and for any job that needs the meter pulled, the electrician coordinates with your utility (PG&E, SCE, SMUD or your local utility) to disconnect and reconnect power. Some utilities require specific (EUSERC) meter equipment or a different meter location.
- Install day. Power is off while the old equipment comes out, the new panel or meter-main goes in, circuits are connected and labeled, and grounding and bonding are brought up to current requirements.
- Inspection. The city or county inspector checks the work. Someone needs to be home for the inspection so the inspector can reach the panel.
- Reconnect. Power is restored; for some service upgrades the utility reconnects after the inspection is signed off.
IES handles the permit, the inspection and the utility coordination as part of the job.
How long does a panel upgrade take?
The install itself is usually a one-day job for a same-location panel swap, with power off for part of the day. Service upgrades can take longer on site, especially with underground service or a moved meter. The calendar time around the work depends mostly on your city or county's permit process and on scheduling the utility's disconnect and reconnect, which can add days or weeks. Your electrician should give you a realistic schedule for your area.
How much does a panel upgrade cost in California?
IES rough starting-at prices from our price book:
- 200-amp service upgrade (overhead, surface-mount meter-main): from $6,500. Flush-mount from $7,575; underground about $7,025 to $8,200. Trenching, meter moves and other major work are extra.
- Main panel replacement, 200 amps, same location: from $4,675.
- Replacing a Federal Pacific, Zinsco or Challenger main panel: from $5,050.
- Subpanel replacement (standard small subpanel, including permit): from $1,250.
- Whole-home surge protector added while the panel is open: from $415.
About these prices: rough starting-at prices from the IES price book. The final price depends on what we find on site, your utility and your city or county. Estimates are free.
For a starting price on your panel, send a few photos; it takes about two minutes.
Common questions
How do I know if I need a panel upgrade or a service upgrade?
If your panel is unsafe, damaged or full but your home has enough capacity, a same-size panel replacement is usually enough. If you are adding large loads such as an EV charger, heat pump or solar and the load calculation shows your service is too small, you need a service upgrade, which also replaces the meter-main equipment and involves your utility.
How much does a 200 amp service upgrade cost?
IES starting-at price for a 200-amp overhead service upgrade with a surface-mount meter-main is $6,500. Flush-mount and underground services cost more, and trenching or moving the meter is extra. The final price depends on what we find on site, and IES gives free estimates.
Do I need to be home for the panel inspection?
Yes. Someone needs to be home for the city or county inspection so the inspector can reach the panel and any other work.
Does the utility need to be involved in a panel upgrade?
For a service upgrade, yes: your utility (for example PG&E, SCE or SMUD) disconnects and reconnects the power and may need to approve the new meter equipment. IES coordinates this for you.
General information for California homes under the California Electrical Code (based on the NEC). Local rules and inspectors can vary. Not a substitute for an on-site inspection. Never work inside a panel, at the meter or on live circuits.